A long day to put us closer to Santiago / un largo día nos deja cerca de Santiago

Cold was the morning, filled with animal sounds and smells, the joy of the freedom in Fonría, set on the mountains of Ancares, Lugo. Downhill and chilly our first kilometers to Triacastela. On a given bump, Alice's rack gives up... The panniers' rack. It has been held in place with a makeshift series of loops and knots, with a cotton cord, but after so many vibrations and shocks, the cotton was probably cut and broke. All was fine, except for the reflector at the rear of the rack, which broke in pieces. We tied the thing back on, and on we went.

   Three main hills slowed us down: right after Triacastela (again 12% or more on loose rock and dirt; didn't expect it!), right after Sarria and right after Portomarin. All was more than right, though. We were getting closer to the goal.

    We enjoyed the views, the smells, the uphills and surely the downhill, the tiny chicks we found a couple times (so cute!), the dogs, but especially the really welcoming and helpful people, all along. Someone will see you from a balcony, looking all lost, trying to figure out what the book and maps say, and that'll quickly will say or yell something to help you: that way! (pointing), turn left!, all up, "venga, venga, que ya queda menos!" (come on, come on, you have less to go!).
    Food is always an awesome experience. Yesterday we may have had a few more Pimientos de Padron than necessary, since we gmhad them at lunch and at dinner (came with the order of fried little sardines that we got), but we forgive it :).

   Well... We pushed, we pedaled till later (800pm) and we got to Melide. That made yesterday a day of 92km and 5000ft of climb, amazingly more than the previous day with its Cebreiro climb. Today we have our last 53km ahead of us, which should put us into the highly expected cathedral of Santiago. We will do the usual rituals of Mass, hug of the image of Santiago (wooden sculpture in the altar piece, which you aproach from the back and hug), and visit the tomb. We shall then get our Compostela (diploma, in Latin, that says you MADE it in this spiritual journey, and you did so properly), have some lunch or dinner with my parents and finally head home.

  I will update you once we arrive either in Compostela or home. Check again to see how it went down... And up, and down, and up.... After all, it's Galicia, my friends: NEVER FLAT! Why? That would be boring ;)